Gourmet burgers sizzle in Lexington

By Roy York

Dallas Rose sits in a UK classroom 15 hours per week. He serves food at P.F. Chang’s 20 hours per week. And he spends 80 hours per week working as the co-owner and operator of Bunk’s Gourmet Burgers and Handcut Fries.

“Sleep is the cousin of death and being broke,” said Rose, a 23-year-old finance senior.

Rose partnered with Ryan Veith, former owner of Pita Pit and co-owner of Bunk’s, to open the restaurant in October 2009, specializing in the American classic: burgers and fries. The pair operates in the kitchen of Two Keys Tavern, but Rose hopes to expand with other Kentucky locations and start a nationwide franchise.

“I went into it thinking that I want to have 200-plus locations,” Rose said. “I don’t think Papa John started his (business) thinking he wanted to serve pizzas at his dad’s bar for the
rest of his life.”

A kitchen worker at Bunk's readies a burger for a customer. Photo by Taylor Moak | Staff

Rose started in the food industry at age 16 and worked every niche from fine dining to fast food. While wearing a shirt that read “Capitalist” in bold, red letters, Rose explained his philosophy of running a successful business.

“You have to have a great product,” Rose said. “If your food is sh***y, you’re not going to get people in the door … I’m pretty confident in saying that we have the best burger in Lexington and maybe in Kentucky.”

While he said delicious food brings customers into the restaurant, Rose looks at every menu item as a cost and tries to determine how to make the most profit on every sale. He said many owners are not concerned with profit margins and efficiency, but successful owners put money making first.

“The most successful businesses are the ones that take something simple and do it better than anyone else,” Rose said.

The idea for the restaurant came to Rose and Veith after a separate gourmet burger project in D.C. failed. Rose said Two Keys was losing money from keeping its grill open and approached Veith to bring a different concept to the bar.

“We had this burger idea in our back pocket, and we just went with it,” Rose said.

Bunk’s opened despite South Limestone construction, limited parking and an impending winter that would slow foot traffic, but Rose said the location had appeal as well. The Two Keys kitchen included grills, deep fryers and many other large appliances, saving Rose and Veith from making an enormous capital investment.

“We went into this knowing that if we fell on our faces, we’d still be OK,” Veith said.

The partners have kept their heads above water, however. Rose said income since the opening has tripled and the business is close to repaying the original investment of about $20,000. He is not taking any salary from Bunk’s until the business is in the black, but he loves his work.

“There’s nowhere else I can come to work everyday and not have to answer to anybody and drink a beer while I’m making burgers,” Rose said.

Rose said most of Bunk’s ingredients come from local businesses such as Critchfield Meats and Kentucky Proud Produce, and no food is ever frozen. He said one food critic bragged that Bunk’s fries were the best he had ever tasted.

The co-owners take pride that their restaurant provides what Rose said is a unique food in Lexington. Rose said he thinks Kentucky is behind the times concerning gourmet burgers, but he is confident his business can thrive in the commonwealth.

“We’re not Burger King, and we’re not McDonald’s, and that’s not who we’re trying to compete with; I mean, that’s like comparing filet mignon to a piece of chicken,” Rose said. “There’s really nobody doing what we’re doing in Kentucky. Maybe Red Robin, but they’re like redneck gourmet.”

10 Responses to Gourmet burgers sizzle in Lexington

  1. Article not clear on location if Bunk’s Gourmet Burgers? Is it in Two Keys or did they open seperate location?

  2. What is the actual address? I’m from Northern Kentucky looking for another place to eat when coming to games! Is it near Kennedy’s bookstore?

  3. It’s at 333 South Limestone, inside Two Keys Tavern. Two Keys is quite a bit down the street from the bookstore. It’s in between the Tin Roof and Pazzo’s.

  4. Bunk’s has the best burgers and fries I have ever experienced. Highly recommend to any and all – definitely worth a visit!

  5. this sounds like 5 guys…

  6. “I’m pretty confident in saying that we have the best burger in Lexington…” – Dallas Rose

    I can’t resist a good burger – what red blooded American can?

    As such, I walked down to Two Keys and bought myself a burger. I am the kind of person that will always get the Original first and move from there – so I ordered the Classic with Cheddar cheese. In case you’ve never been, this burger is dressed with lettuce, red onion, tomato, and what I can only describe as a fancy spiced mayo. You know – it’s just a classic burger. Just the same – I paid $6 and waited for 15 minutes.

    My first impression was based solely on presentation – the burger was smashed, the bun was clearly sporting an uneven char on the top. Just the same – maybe taste made up for it. My thoughts after eating? The burger tasted a little over done – but I’ve always been one who liked a little pink in my burger – and the burger was definitely juicy. The bun was WAY too sweet – overpowering the burger and other ingredients entirely if too much of the bite was bun. The amount of onion was minimal, but with red onions being stronger than yellow, this was expected. Overall, I was unimpressed.

    Maybe it’s not the same “gourmet” mix of meats in their ground beef, but for $3.23 you can get a Tolly Ho with Cheddar cheese. That’s after tax.

    If you want a burger in town, you’ve got options. For me, Bunk’s is not option #1. Maybe if I’m chilling in Two Keys and I get a little hungry – but let’s face it, by then…I’m drunk.

    Nicholas Aden
    Materials Science and Chemical Engineering Junior

  7. Funny how Nicholas Aden, who bashes Bunks, works at Tolly Ho. Looks as if some new competition in town has someone worried. Come to think of it if you can buy a burger for $3.23 at Tolly Ho, who has no buying power, it makes you wonder what kind of meat you are eating…

  8. Nicholas , you obviously have redneck taste.

  9. Just went to Bunks and had the most amazing burger!!! I’ve been to Tolly Ho, and Five guys… They are decent….but Bunks is way better quality. The meat is so much better and the sauces are amazing!!!! Everyone should go to Bunks!!!

  10. Bunks has a great product, it’s on par with Malones/Drakes burgers. Keep in mind that Smash Burgers is going to open up in Center Court in Mid-March and they also serve wine and beer and are out of Colorado and are Anges never frozen as well. Both will be great. Also in the old Awkward Moose I hear there is a burger place going in there as well. Overall Bunks will always be in my restaurant rotation, it’s best to wait for happy hour at the Keys and wait for your burgers while drinking the dollar drafts. My only concern with Bunks is the wait, but heck I’m retired and it’s not a problem to me but if your in a hurry, you may want to let them know or CALL AHEAD!

    PEACH OUT.